她回信說還好 他還很積極籌備11月8-9日在 Madison, Wisconsin. 舉行的TWEDI年會呢
"This will be the first time -- maybe the only time -- that The W. Edwards Deming Institute® has held its annual conference in Wisconsin. Don't miss it."
-- Peter R. Scholtes, Program Chair
36 Hours in Milwaukee
THERE’S plenty about modern-day Milwaukee that would be unrecognizable to Laverne and Shirley from the sitcom about the late 50s and 60s. Oh, the area still appreciates its beer and bratwurst: delis carry a mind-boggling variety of sausage, and bars are known to have 50-plus brands of brew. But Milwaukee also has 95 miles of bike lanes, lush parks lacing the shores of Lake Michigan and a revitalized riverfront where sophisticated shops coexist within sight of the city’s industrial past. Modern Milwaukee isn’t so much defined by the Rust Belt anymore, but rather by its lively downtown and a signature museum so architecturally striking that it competes for attention with the art it holds.
1) HOG HEAVEN
The city’s newest tourist attraction, opened in July, is the museum that celebrates the 1903 invention of Milwaukee residents William Harley and Arthur Davidson and the American icon it has become. The Harley-Davidson Museum (400 Canal Street; 877-436-8738; www.h-dmuseum.com; admission $10 to $16) has 138 motorcycles on display, including the first two models, from 1903 and 1905, a 1920 Sport model marketed to women and the 1932 Servi-Car used for commercial deliveries and credited with keeping the company solvent during the Great Depression. Harley-Davidson began setting aside at least one motorcycle every year since 1915, and the resulting collection tells the story of a machine, America and the open road in the 20th century — an absorbing tale whether or not you ride.
2) SNAKE CHASERS
Sure, there’s more to Milwaukee than beer, but the frothy beverage undeniably helped build the city. At one point in the 19th century, 150 breweries flourished there, many established by German immigrants whose names were Pabst, Miller and Schlitz. So to better appreciate all that history and perhaps take a sip yourself, tour the Lakefront Brewery (1872 North Commerce Street; 414-372-8800; www.lakefrontbrewery.com), housed in a century-old former utility building with soaring, 30-foot-high ceilings. You’ll learn about how beer is made and taste a few of Lakefront’s winning brews, including the Snake Chaser, an Irish-style stout made in honor of St. Patrick’s Day. The guides are very funny, so for the laughs alone, it’s worth the $6 admission.
3) SLAVIC FOOD AND STORIES
For authentic Eastern European flavors, you can’t do better than Three Brothers Bar and Restaurant (2414 South St. Clair Street; 414-481-7530; www.3brothersrestaurant.com), a Milwaukee institution that has been serving Serbian cuisine since 1954. Where else could you order roast suckling pig with rice and vegetables, served with home-pickled cabbage ($16.50)? Or a chicken paprikash ($15.50) followed by an incredibly light seven-layer walnut torte ($6)? The dining room has the unpretentious feel of a neighborhood tavern. If you’re lucky, the energetic 85-year-old owner, Branko Radicevic, may come out of the kitchen and regale you with stories of resisting the Nazis.
4) BIBLIOPHILE’S DELIGHT
The first floor of the Renaissance Book Shop (834 North Plankinton Avenue; 414-271-6850) looks like a book collector’s attic, with boxes of used books lining the floor of this century-old former furniture store. But it’s more organized than it looks, with about a half-million books parceled among dozens of categories (“animal husbandry” “theater practices and problems”) spread across three floors and a basement.
5) SAUSAGE AND CHEESE
Before taking your new books to one of the city’s lovely waterfront parks, pack a picnic on Old World Third Street, the center of German life in 19th-century Milwaukee. The Wisconsin Cheese Mart (215 West Highland Avenue; 888-482-7700; www.wisconsincheesemart.com), which opened in 1938, sells hundreds of varieties of cheese. Favorites include the cave-aged cheddar or any of the Gouda cheeses produced by the Penterman Farm of Thorpe, Wis. A few doors down is Usingers (1030 North Old World Third Street; 800-558-9998; www.usinger.com), sausage makers since 1880. There are 70 varieties, including the lean summer sausage.
6) SPREADING WINGS
The Milwaukee Art Museum (700 North Art Museum Drive; 414-224-3200; www.mam.org; $8) may have opened in 1888, but the eye-catching Quadracci Pavilion, designed by Santiago Calatrava and opened in 2001, has become a symbol of modern Milwaukee. With its movable wings expanded to their full, 217-foot span, the building looks either like a large white bird landing on Lake Michigan or the tail of a white whale emerging from the water. There’s art, too: extensive collections of folk, central European and Germanic, and post-1960 contemporary.
7) A WARD UPDATED
Many cities have warehouse districts that have become revitalized; Milwaukee has the Historic Third Ward (www.historicthirdward.org), which constitutes the blocks between the Milwaukee River and Jackson Street. A century ago, this was a manufacturing center. Now it is a magnet for shoppers, with old brick warehouses converted into boutiques and restaurants. For distinctive fashions, search no farther than Lela (321 North Broadway Street; 414-727-4855; www.lelaboutique.com), for designer clothing on consignment, or Three Graces (207 East Buffalo Street, 414-273-3350; www.threegracesonline.com), for women’s clothing and accessories, including hats.
8) POPOVER DELIGHT
If you need to give your arteries a rest, try some lighter fare at Coast (931 East Wisconsin Avenue; 414-727-5555; www.coastrestaurant.com), an elegant seafood restaurant. Try the baked local walleye served on a cedar plank with roasted red potatoes and haricots verts ($26). The warm popovers are to die for. If you are ready to throw your cholesterol numbers to the wind, have the praline pyramid ($8): layers of pecans, meringue wafers, Grand Marnier butter cream and chocolate ganache glaze.
9) BLUES IN THE NIGHT
East Brady Street, which stretches for about eight blocks from Lake Michigan to the Milwaukee River, was a hippie hangout in the 1960s. Today, its well-preserved buildings and 19th-century Victorian homes are a backdrop to one of the city’s liveliest neighborhoods. During the day, boutiques and small stores are open for lingering shoppers. At night, restaurants and bars keep the street lively. A good spot for music is the Up and Under Pub (1216 East Brady Street; 414-276-2677), which proclaims itself the blues capital of Milwaukee. With high ceilings, an antique bar and 24 beers on tap, it offers live blues, rock and reggae until 2 a.m. There’s usually a $5 cover and, with no city smoking ban, the air can get a little blue late in the evening. If you’d rather avoid alcohol, Rochambo Coffee and Tea House down the street (1317 East Brady Street; 414-291-0095; www.rochambo.com) offers dozens of teas and stays open until midnight.
10) LAKESIDE BRUNCH
The Knick (1030 East Juneau Avenue; 414-272-0011; www.theknickrestaurant.com) is busy and breezy on Sunday mornings, with an outdoor patio near Lake Michigan overlooking Veterans Park. The food is mouth-watering, the service attentive. For a memorable breakfast, try the crab hash, a mixture of crabmeat, onions and hash browns topped with two eggs ($11.99), or the banana pecan pancakes, dripping with whiskey butter and served with maple syrup ($10.99).
11) WISCONSIN TROPICS
Rain or shine, the Mitchell Park Horticultural Conservatory (525 South Layton Boulevard; 414-649-9800; www.countyparks.com; $5) offers perennial respite. Affectionately known as the Domes, the conservatory is housed in three 85-foot-high, beehive-shaped buildings with different climates: the Floral Dome has more than 150 floral displays; the Arid Dome mimics the desert, with an oasislike pool surrounded by cactuses; and the Tropical Dome has 1,200 rain-forest plants, tropical birds flying overhead and a 30-foot waterfall. The Domes closed in June for repairs, but is to reopen Oct. 20.
Milwaukee became “cooler” on Aug. 19 when it dedicated a life-sized statue of the Fonz, the iconic television character from “Happy Days.” The Bronzie Fonzie (www.visitmilwaukee.org/visitors/fonzie), as fans are calling it, stands on the west side of the Wells Street Bridge, in the Riverwalk section. It’s quickly becoming the most photographed spot in the city, so smile and remember: two thumbs up for the camera.
General Mitchell International Airport, about 10 miles from downtown Milwaukee, is a hub for Midwest Airlines and is also served by Delta, United, US Airways and others. In late October, AirTran flies nonstop from Newark to Milwaukee starting at $207, according to a recent online search.
Downtown is easy to get around by foot or car. In the summer, a free trolley loops around the area’s major attractions.
For pampering, stay at the grand old Pfister Hotel (800-472-4403; 424 East Wisconsin Avenue; www.thepfisterhotel.com), a throwback to Victorian elegance and within walking distance of the waterfront and attractions. In fall, doubles can start as low as $199.
For a less expensive option, try the Hilton City Center (414-271-7250; 509 West Wisconsin Avenue; www.hiltonmilwaukee.com), especially if you have young children. The Paradise Landing Tropical Waterpark is in the hotel. Rooms start at $167.
JOURNEYS; 36 Hours | Madison, Wis.
ON an isthmus sandwiched by Lakes Mendota and Monona, Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, is a progressive university town noted for the good life: sailing, paddling and windsurfing in the summer; cross-country skiing, hiking and ice-skating in the winter (which can be so cold, in fact, that bundled-up Madisonians take on a unisex look); good old Midwestern values all year-round.
In 1948, Life magazine featured Madison as its pick for the best place to live in America; thankfully, not much has changed. It's the kind of place where you will find well-maintained (and well-used) bike paths, an abundance of locally grown organic food at the weekend farmers' market and bed-and-breakfasts with ecological and historical awareness. But don't let Madison's fresh-scrubbed face fool you -- its radical 1960's past may have mellowed into more of a fervor for football, but it is all balanced with a sophisticated cultural life comparable to that of a much larger city.
Frank Lloyd Wright buildings dot the landscape, and thriving theater and arts communities can be found on and off campus, along with a competitive culinary scene and a diverse population that includes punk-rock students and die-hard conservatives. What could be finer? BONNIE TSUI
1) A Campus Tour
The pedestrian-only State Street runs from the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus to the Capitol, connecting the academic center to the seat of government. Strolling the avenue is an ideal way to get the lay of the land and an idea of how eclectic this town really is: you will see the progression of businesses from crunchy coffee bars, record shops and thrift stores to upscale bars, restaurants and brew pubs. The bars get busy on football weekends. And the campus stadium is filled with fans who come back weekend after weekend to cheer the Badgers. Start your journey off right with some of the richest ice cream you will ever have -- made by the university's dairy students from the agriculture school -- at the Memorial Union (800 Langdon Street, 608-265-3000). A Friday evening on the union's terrace, complete with live music, bratwurst and $3 beers, can't be beat.
2)Microbrews and Pub Food
Beer is a serious business in Madison (after all, it is just 80 or so miles from Milwaukee). End up at the Capitol end of State Street for dinner at the Great Dane brewery (123 East Doty Street, 608-284-0000). Try one of the whimsically named beers on tap, like Crop Circle Wheat, an unfiltered beer with a bit of bite and served with a lemon slice, or one of the specials of the day, like the hoppy and tangy Texas Speedbump IPA. Or taste them all with the best deal of the night: four-ounce samplers of whatever brew you like for 75 cents each. The restaurant serves a wide selection of more-than-pub food: Caribbean jerk-spiced tofu wraps ($6.95), fried calamari with banana peppers ($6.95) and bratwurst and mashed potatoes ($7.25). And if you decide you would like to take some beer to go, you can: half-gallon containers of house brews are $8, plus a $3 container fee.
3)Circumnavigate the Lake
Rent a set of wheels from Machinery Row Bicycles (601 Williamson Street, 608-442-5974; bikes are $20 a day, in-line skates, $10, helmets and locks included) and take a spin around picturesque Lake Monona on a 13-mile paved bike loop. The path winds past sandy beaches, ducks sitting on grassy banks and fishermen casting off the docks. Afterward, walk along the waterfront to the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Monona Terrace Community and Convention Center (1 John Nolen Drive, 608-261-4000), a five-level swish of curved glass and archways with a cafe, a rooftop terrace and a memorial to the singer Otis Redding, who died in a plane crash on Lake Monona in 1967.
4)Get It While It's Fresh
Every Saturday until Nov. 8, the Dane County Farmers' Market brings more than 300 vendors and their seasonal wares to Capitol Square (608-455-1999; open 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.). It's the place to graze on a full-color spectrum of just-picked homegrown produce: sweet corn, apples, beets, plums, broccoli and Swiss chard. In the bustling, energetic milieu of the urban happily meeting the rural, you can also find scones and muffins, Wisconsin cheese, goat-milk yogurt and fresh-bottled pesto, jams and honey.
If you're not the type to join legions of Badger fans for the Saturday football game, spend the afternoon touring Frank Lloyd Wright's 600-acre estate, above, he named Taliesin (a Welsh term meaning ''shining brow''), a National Historic Landmark about 45 minutes west of Madison in Spring Green (Highways 23 and C, 608-588-7900; call for tour prices and times). Though Wright designed several buildings in Madison itself, including the sharply angled limestone, copper and glass Unitarian Meeting House on University Bay Drive, he left his college town to make a home.
Madison is said to have more restaurants per capita than any American city, and its dinner choices don't disappoint. Most of the finer establishments are on Capitol Square, including Harvest (21 North Pinckney Street, 608-255-6075), where the French and American seasonal menu uses locally grown, organic produce. The best way to dine is with the chef's nightly tasting menu; recent specials included seared wild striped bass ($25). Next door is L'Etoile (25 North Pinckney Street, 608-251-0500), whose similar natural-food ethic has won several awards for its chef and owner Odessa Piper. The restaurant also operates a street-level bakery and market cafe that sells artisanal breads, sandwiches, pastries and coffee. For seafood lovers, the Blue Marlin (101 North Hamilton Street, 608-255-2255) serves a fresh, catch-of-the-day menu in an intimate 1850's building; recent dishes included broiled blue marlin with pesto ($21.95) and grilled wild king salmon with cucumber dill relish ($20.95).
7)A Little Night Music
More often than not, the seen-and-be-seen crowd in Madison can be found seated at the long, curved bar at Restaurant Magnus (120 East Wilson Street, 608-258-8787). The nightspot's extensive tapas menu, well-chosen wine list and live weekend performances (mostly jazz and South American music) keep the front lounge, bar and vaulted-ceiling dining room packed. The drinks set often becomes a dance set after 10 p.m.
Take a leisurely walk or join a pack of runners through the University of Wisconsin's 1,260-acre arboretum (1207 Seminole Highway, 608-263-7888), an ''outdoor ecological laboratory'' with habitats native to the Midwest. There is a six-mile paved loop and miles of hiking and cross-country skiing trails. Water babies can rent kayaks or canoes in Wingra Park, on Lake Wingra.
9)Food and Thought
Chances are you will have eaten your fill at your bed-and-breakfast, but if you have a little room left head to Sophia's Bakery & Cafe (831 East Johnson Street, 608-259-1506) for coffee and fresh pastries: bear claws ($2), cinnamon buns ($2) and croissants ($1.50 to $2.25 each). You can spend the afternoon browsing at Canterbury Booksellers (315 West Gorham Street, 608-258-9911), a Madison institution that works with the writing faculty at the university to bring in writers, like Tim O'Brien, for readings.
Madison has its own airport, Dane County Regional, about five miles from downtown (a taxi costs about $12). Continental offers nonstop flights to Madison from Newark International Airport, and many airlines offer direct service from La Guardia Airport. General Mitchell International Airport in Milwaukee is an hour and a half from Madison.Bed-and-breakfasts offer the most charming lodging in town, and there are plenty of choices. The Arbor House (3402 Monroe Street, 608-238-2981; $95 to $220), a luxurious yet refreshingly eco-conscious inn, has hearty breakfasts, Internet access and mountain bikes to use. At the meticulously restored Mansion Hill Inn (424 North Pinckney Street, 800-798-9070; $170 to $280), an 1857 German Romanesque Revival home, you can revisit the past in each of the 11 sumptuously decorated suites. For a more standard high-rise experience, the 240-room Hilton Madison Monona Terrace (9 East Wilson Street, 608-255-5100; from $125), is by the Capitol and overlooks Lake Monona.